We tried a new way of training inspired by Adam Ondra.
Adams Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@AdamOndra
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https://www.instagram.com/eric.karlsson89/
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I hope you will try this way of flashing over the next few weeks and see what kind of experience you will have! I also wanted to share this interview Adam did with the testpiece podcast, where he talks about mindset in climbing and the value of trying your hardest. Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b79hrHtzt_M
Couldn't FA the comments… because Eric beat me to it – not fair.
You got that 13:00 Boulder
Fun to see you climb stuff me and my buddies just attempted last Thursday. That yellow 6c+ you did is actually way harder than it might look on camera, and what a fight on that 7a! Great effort man! Also thank you Theo for showing us the beta on the white with transparent holds. We were scratching our heads on that one. Great video as always Eric!
That send might not have counted for a comp but as a gym send, I'd definitely count it. Great job! You guys are looking strong!
imo the yellow counts ๐
First @42 minutes later ๐๐๐๐ FINALLY a new vid โค๐
such a fun video, great climbing ๐
No go I'm afraid…
movinโ well Choss.
You know you dropped it, we know you dropped it.. Happens to the best of us!
Brilliant effort from both of you. Great video as always Eric๐
Do you recommend doing this method above your project level or at where you normally project??
every time you try a flash, you're taking the opportunity to onsight the route..
My subjective opinion is no send on the yellow 6C+. Brilliant effort nonetheless!
Kul att se. Ni borde gรถra en liknade video fast utomhus!๐
damn, "only one chance in your life" changes everything
Loved it! Do or do not! There is no try. ๐
My boulder buddy is very good at committing 100 % to his attempts and I envy him for that. I should definitely try this!
so are gyms different over there? you can use any colour to get to the top? 5:26
If this isn't an insane good motivational video, I don't know what โ๏ธ. Great effort from both of you.
Sorry Eric, but the yellow didn't count.
What an awesome idea!! โค๐
Not that long ago I decided that I want to go for a flash on every boulder I try, but I have not done as much prep as you guys have done here. Great concept and great results!
So psyched to see the both of you enjoying yourselves so much!
I think you know in your heart if it was a send more than we do. ๐
Every single flash looked so solid man! God dayum that boy is looking strong
Great to see you guys pushing your limits and having such a good time!
v6/barely v7 climber and every new set my gym has i try onsight all boulders v5 and below, i actively wont look at people on the climbs
Wow Eric inspiring Video ๐คฏ
So fun!! Feeling inspired by the trying hard with a balance disorder! ๐ช
5:28 no send, 12:39 no send.
You're looking so strong dude. How is your balance right now? You seem more stable coming off boulders than you used to? Great vid as always
Sessions like this are crucial. Whenever my gym has a reset I'll do this.
Great climbing content, love the vibes
I'd say you guys should focus more on the feet. A lot of the attempts it didn't look like you knew the beta to commit to, and it was mostly due to feet positioning, so it was mainly power that got you through? Still cool to see, and it's definitely a skill to train.
*Teo looked amazing though! Look at how solid and controlled his footwork is!
is compression the same as tension? when referring to the style
Fun video. Good concept of only having one try.
Throughout the video the word limit is thrown around a lot though. I would call this more execution practice. Perhaps at times it is on the limit in terms of engagement and commitment.
But it for sure is not limit bouldering in the sense of testing/training the physical limit of individual moves or a short sequence of moves. Flashing boulders almost never is. But perhaps that is more in line with how it is meant here, improving your max flash?
So sick. Well done! That was awesome, great vid. Thanks!
Where is nikken?
I would have never doubted in you sending the yellow, you looked in proper control. But you then suddenly bringing it up out of nowhere makes me think something must have happened and you felt it. If your question then is if it still looked like a send, then it sure still did, it looked like you had complete control and dropped off. But only you know why did you feel the need to start asking questions right after. Were you just worried that it didn't look like you had it while you had it, or did you feel like you lost it and fell ๐
That looks like a really fun type of session!
Fuck yeah dude!
I really enjoy seeing your progress in your balance. Lots of greetings to beautiful Sweden!
I've watched it 5 times and I still have no idea how the hell Teo held that foot slip.
Idk what everybody is talking about, you sent the yellow for sure.
Definitely a send, no doubt in my mind