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2 EASY to Fix Accuracy KILLERS



2 EASY to fix accuracy killers! For this school of nock lesson, I talk with you about two things that cause poor accuracy and bad groupings in the target. The first lesson is how to properly place the front bow hand perfect prior to the draw cycle. The second lesson is keeping your head in a vertical position that doesn’t change once you are at full draw. If your peep sight is causing you to use your nose to adjust it, then get that issue fixed so your head isn’t having to change positions or torque the string.

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40 Comments

  1. Shouldn’t we be worrying about our arrow weight and FOC instead of form? 🤣

  2. Definitely important…. could have easily been explained in about 35 seconds but I guess we are all on here to kill time anyways!

  3. I tagged you in a video on ig now I feel this is directed towards me 😅 but yes I have to stop moving my hand when I draw it’s a bad habit I have

  4. Thanks for the knowledge. I guess thats the most thing that ppl mostly dont care about where could destroy their target

  5. Yes it is. I went even further-I apply deliberate torking or torkting control after stretching the bow. Depends on the bow setting, sometimes a slight torking to the left is required to achieve an even arrow flight.

  6. Thank you Sir. I just recently started watching your videos and helped me tremendously. I am 59 and thought I was done bowhunting- I realize it is many small things I was taking for granted that was making question my marksmanship. I am starting from " scratch " with your videos….again thank you-I am back in the woods!

  7. So when they tell you to barely touch the tip of your nose on the string, your head movement changes. Have I been told wrong

  8. I have a Mathews V3. My peep sight isn’t always lined up. Do you have any videos on how to fix that or is that something I should just take my bow into the dealer to fix?

    Also, your videos have helped a lot with fine tuning my shot. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!

  9. Heh, the number one way is to just not use a compound bow. That, in itself, is an accuracy killer.

  10. As a beginner this guy is a great help and seems like a monster archer. His lessons are the best on youtube,

  11. Its important to have a catch phrase to say when you're at full draw.
    "Make my day punk"
    "Eat lead baby"
    "Roadhouse"
    For just a few examples

  12. I have a draw that is strange to other compound shooters, but my background isn't in compound bows. I grew up from age 6 shooting war bows. I've always been extremely strong and very large for my age. I was 4' tall at six years old. my first real bow was a bamboo japanese war bow my grand father, his bladesmithing master (a japanese master bladesmith he met after ww2 during the japanese reconstruction), and I made. I've been making bows since I was 4. that bow was a 75lbs bow. master hondo taught me to draw it the japanese way. I still draw that way because that was how I was taught to begin with. it is very ritualized in Japan. I don't really do the ritual part unless I am shooting a Japanese bow, but I do draw over hand in that same manner with every style bow due to muscle memory. a part of that type draw is settling the bow in the pad of the thumb though. just like how you explain it in this video. I also have a super bad habit of my bow thumb being stuck in the air from using it as my arrow rest when shooting an asian bow. a habit I have to fight is rotating the bow away like Japanese warbows require. its kind of funny how we always drift back to our foundation. this technique allows a very small person to draw extremely heavy bows. I own a 300lbs recurve warbow I made. I can draw it' but now hold it. that bow can only be drawn with the full Japanese ritualistic draw. it takes every muscle in your back and shoulders. if you try to do it with your arms you are going to tear muscles long before you get to full draw. anyway my point is the techniques you talked about in this video are a huge part of the foundation I was raised with. I just glad someone besides me teaches it. I actually believe archers should master heavy primitive style bows before they even touch a compound because it will build muscles that will make compound so easy, and make them laser accurate.

  13. I’ve had to trim my beard to accommodate for this. Because my beard was getting in the way of my kisser button/anchor point and I’d have to adjust my head at full draw.

  14. As a recurve hunter who shoots sitting, twisting, laying, kneeling…. Nothing is better for your accuracy than solid , consistent anchor points.
    You can grip the bow many different ways , and as long as your anchor points stay consistent, you'll shoot tiny groups…. Especially when you thrown in a sighting system with very precise pins and a bubble level, plus a good peep sight…. Line everything up consistently before the shot and you'll be ruining arrows from such tight groups.
    Facts !

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